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"You commit your whole life to making wine," he said, "and then other people carry it onward." But Joseph places his work on an ancestral continuum. Thinking in those terms, Vermont's 20-year winemaking history is immeasurably brief. In geologic time, humans fermented the world's first wines mere moments ago. Sediment from the sea provided the raw materials for our region's bedrock. Iapetus takes its name from an ancient ocean, the floor of which rose to form New England and Appalachia some 500 million years ago.
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Soon thereafter, Joseph, a central New Jersey native, left an environmental science career at the University of Vermont and joined the winery full time. In 2008, the company opened an expansive winery and tasting room just south of Shelburne village. Over the years, Albert, along with partners Scott Prom and Sam Coppola, increased the farm's plantings to 16 acres spread across three sites in Shelburne and Charlotte. For most of its 20-year history, the vineyard has produced clean-drinking, straightforward wines that most tourists rolling in off Route 7 could appreciate. Tectonic isn't the kind of wine you'd expect from Shelburne Vineyard, where founder Kenneth Albert planted some of Vermont's first wine grapes in 1998. Joseph crushed the first grapes for his natural wine project in 2016 its first vintages went public in late 2017. The enigmatic orange wine - called Tectonic - is one of several ferments produced at the vineyard under the Iapetus label. By the third sip, I struggled to identify what, exactly, I was tasting.
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A spin of the glass released the fragrance of nectarines and ripening peaches a sip conjured citrus and pepper.Ī second tip of the glass brought on white cherries and a little wet-wood funk, absorbed during the wine's many months in neutral oak barrels. Pale salmon in color and a little cloudy - similar in hue to a high-autumn grain field at sunset - the wine was pressed from hybrid La Crescent grapes, which Joseph fermented with their skins in a steel tank for 55 days last fall.
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Wearing green Carhartts, rubber boots and a less-than-clean button-down shirt, the bushy-bearded redhead twisted a corkscrew into a bottle of wine, popped the cork and poured three glasses. Shelburne Vineyard winegrower Ethan Joseph stood at the back of the winery at the end of a long harvest day.